Clothing & Repair · Skill 03 of 04
Basic Hand Stitching
Running stitch, backstitch and whip stitch. Learn these three and you can handle hems, seams, edges and most repairs.
Companion
Three stitches cover almost every repair you'll ever need.
- Needle and thread
- Standard
- All-purpose thread and a medium sharp needle.
- Low cost
- Any dollar-store sewing kit.
- Already have
- A hotel sewing kit.
- Practice fabric
- Standard
- A fat quarter of cotton from a craft store.
- Low cost
- A cheap tea towel.
- Already have
- An old t-shirt, pillowcase or tea towel headed for the rag bin.
- 01Thread and knotCut about 60 cm, thread the needle, and tie a knot in the long end. Longer thread tangles; shorter thread runs out mid-seam.
- 02Running stitch — fast and lightWeave the needle in and out at even spacing, roughly 3 to 5 mm. Use it for gathering, basting and hems that carry no strain.
- 03Backstitch — the strong oneCome up, go back into the end of the previous stitch, and come up ahead of it. It looks like machine stitching and it's the strongest hand seam. Use it anywhere there's tension.
- 04Whip stitch — for edgesLoop the thread over the edge of the fabric again and again at a slight angle. Perfect for closing a gap, joining two edges or stopping fraying.
- 05Keep tension evenPull each stitch until it's snug, not tight. Over-tightening puckers the fabric and the seam will pull apart at the tightest point.
- 06Finish properlyTake two tiny stitches in the same place on the underside, pass the needle through the loop, and pull. Trim close — a good knot is what makes the repair last through washing.
Worth Knowing
- Sew in good light. Most 'I can't sew' is actually 'I can't see the needle eye'.
- Wetting the thread end and cutting it at an angle makes threading much easier.